2-degrees Fahrenheit with icy winds slicing through my bones. My fingers are beyond numb. Ice-traction cleats. Snow boots. A face scarf. Four layers of clothing underneath my knee-length Uniqlo jacket. I walk cautiously across the slick surface of the frozen lake toward a cluster of dome-shaped, neon-colored tents in the middle of this vast lake. It is snowing heavily.
A mere two months ago, I embarked on a week-long sake and culinary tour of eastern Hokkaido known for their konbu, oysters, and uni. Etsuko-san, our guide, promised our group she would start the week with a “fun” activity. In the past, her “fun” activities have included a 5-mile snowshoeing expedition through 15-inches of white slush in rural Akita. So, naturally, I was apprehensive.
Landing at Memanbetsu Airport, we were shuttled to the nearby Lake Abashiri where Etsuko-san introduced us to the sport of ice-fishing, a popular winter activity in Japan. In the months between December and March, Lake Abashiri freezes up to 4-feet deep. The lake is known for its Wakasagi or smelt, a slender silvery fish (5”-7” in length) native to Hokkaido. No one seems to know exactly when ice fishing began in Japan but the ice-solid lakes during the winter months probably served as a rich source of food for many centuries.
We were shown how to drill through the surface of the lake with a bladed hand crank. Not an easy endeavor. Learning how to bait the fishing lines was no simple task either. I have never fished in my life. So, this was a radically new experience for me. As we entered the tents, I noticed there were no heaters but then again, why should there be? I was on a frozen lake.
Twenty frustrating minutes later, I finally got the hang of inserting the line into the narrow hole and then pulling it out when I felt the catch. By the end of the session, I caught more than 25 smelts. My other tent mates did equally well. The experience was agonizingly cold, wet, and slippery but so much fun!
The highlight of the day? We fried our bounteous catch Tempura-style on a mini propane-powered fryer right on the lake. Tempura Wakasagi, sprinkled with light curry salt, was an unforgettable umami moment. Etsuko-san, of course, had a few bottles of Hokkaido’s Junmai Daiginjo sake to accompany our dining adventure. The Japanese have a phrase “Ichigo Ichie” loosely translated as “One experience. Never again.” I will remember this moment for the rest of my life.
Posted: April 2020
